Among the first sights encountered by newcomers to Cuenca, along with the billowing white clouds, the rolling green hills, and the red-tile roofs, are the big blue and red buses that spew black fumes into the otherwise colorless alpine air. Hundreds of them bomb around town — 475 of them, in fact — from roughly 5:45 a.m. till 10 p.m. on weekdays, and 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekends, servicing more than two dozen lines operated by seven different bus companies that have contracts with the city. There’s no doubt about it. These buses are fumy, issuing diesel exhaust every…
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